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We are able to display scrolling text across it, watch a pong animation, display a sine wave, display the score of the game, etc. There is a huge amount of possibilities!
Since we are able to detect when a cup is removed from the table we can make specific animations that trigger exactly when that happens.
We'll get more in-depth with that later. The table actually supports a maximum display size of 32x16, however I have made it only 32x12 to span further across the table.
The 16oz cups that are used for beer pong are placed over top of these pods. Each pod contains 6 RGB LEDs and 1 infrared sensor and we are able to light up the pods with any color that we would like.
The infrared sensor will detect whether or not a cup is over top of the pod, so if a cup is removed we can change the color of the pod, begin an animation on the LED grid, run an animation on the RGB pods, etc.
Air Baths There is an air bath on each side of the table. The purpose of the air bathes are to blow any debris off of the ping pong balls, thus cleaning them.
When a player drops a ball to their left into the "IN" hole of the air bath, it detects the ball and starts a fan.
This fan will move the ball down a pipe, removing debris and blowing it out the "OUT" hole to the right of the player.
The player then grabs the ball and the air bath shuts off. Players can also dunk the ping pong balls in a cup of water before putting them into the air bath to get a better clean.
The outer edges of the table contain 4 LED rings each and the air baths make up the other 4. They can be set to go in accordance with music VU Meter feature must be turned on , fade in and out, flash rapidly or any other cool animation that you can think of.
Beer cups can be set inside of the LED rings on the railing which provides a cool effect on the upper lip of the cup.
One can use the AUX input to feed the audio directly into the microcontroller or opt to use the built-in microphone to detect audio around it.
The VU Meter can be set up to activate any LED lights to any of the 7 available frequencies that the microcontroller can detect.
This is a really neat feature and the animation possibilities with it are endless. Bluetooth Module This beer pong table contains a bluetooth module which allows it to communicate wirelessly with PCs or mobile devices.
This is still in the alpha stage, but in the future it will allow the beer pong tables firmware to be updated wirelessly.
This is a huge plus as it allows even greater hackability for users. On top of that, we can use it to send the score of the game or control individual features on the table.
It's simple. I want users to be able to design animations on their PC with custom built software, save it to a file, load that file onto an SD card then insert it into the table where they can display their own custom animations!
More than anything, this is storage space for custom user animation files. I plan to make it so that the SD card doesn't need to be pulled out of the table and that files can be copied to it over the bluetooth link from a PC.
This feature is also in an alpha stage. RGB Underlighting We have so many lights on top of the table, why not put some on the bottom too!
I mean, with all of the other lights in the room, we may as well change the color of the floor too. Enter the 24 button infrared remote.
Want to display a different animation? Dim the brightness of the RGB pods? No problem, grab the remote and do it instantly. You can also use the 16x2 LCD display to change menu settings in conjunction with the remote.
This chip is used to save any user settings between power cycles and may hold the button codes for future IR remotes.
That means more fading animations, more LEDs and more excitement! In all reality, you may be hard-pressed to find enough room on the table for all of the LED features!
This kit contains all of the electronic components that the "Unassembled Kit" contains and has them already soldered on the PCBs.
The LED grid does not come pre-assembled seeing as it has to be built into the table itself, but all of the LEDs and wiring for it are included in this kit and can be assembled when the table is built.
All of the PCBs are fully operational and tested before being shipped out and the microcontroller is pre-programmed with the bootloader so that the firmware can be updated over bluetooth.
All of the connectors and wiring harnesses are assembled and have been tested with their respective parts. With this kit you don't need a lot of technical know-how as it is pretty much plug and play except for the LED grid which has to be soldered together.
If you can wield a soldering iron to make the LED grid and have the skills to build the table, this kit might be a good choice for you. As the name of the kit states, the PCBs and connectors come unassembled and have to be put together by the backer.
This kit requires advanced soldering skills for the various types of SMD components that have to be populated on the PCBs. You will also need a PIC programmer to get the initial bootloader programmed into the microcontroller, after that initial programming, you can then program over bluetooth.
Each component has to be soldered onto each PCB, meaning that this kit requires good soldering skills and a decent soldering iron. There are some really small SMD parts that only have 0.
I do provide video instructions later in the Instructable that shows how to solder some of these small components.
It also includes an IR remote along with the custom air bath motor mounts and sensor brackets. This is the most advanced kit, as none of the electronic components are included in this kit and they have to be purchased separately.
The bill of materials and other information for this kit can be downloaded from the main zip file in step 1.
If you look at this project as a whole it may seem very intimidating. The trick is to break each part down into 'mini' projects and integrate them together.
You don't build the whole project, wire everything together and then turn it on hoping that it will all work because chances are that it won't. Instead, we take baby steps and separate the project into smaller sub-projects, testing the workings of each sub-project before moving on to the next one.
By doing it this way you can work out any issues one at a time as you progress. If you plan to use a fully assembled kit where you only have to do minimal soldering LED grid , hook up the RGB pods to the main PCB and if you are using a table that you purchased from somewhere, you will only need the following skills to be able to build your own table:.
If you order a PCB only or an unassembled kit and are bad at soldering, you may want to get somebody who is good at it to help you. Some parts only have a 0.
Software All of the software for the beer pong table has been written in C. This project has been set up with the free versions of those compilers and either compiler will work.
The XC16 compiler is the newer one of the two and is the one that I use. You can see a large portion of Microchips software downloads here.
There are 21 PCBs that are required to create this project. The other PCB is the main control board and is the brains of the operation.
There is also a small pin breakout PCB that is included with each kit. The majority of these components can be found on eBay but there are a select few which may prove more difficult to find.
I have added a BOM to the zip file in step 1 which has each component, the required quantity, the price and the vendor where the component s can be purchased.
Now we need to acquire the materials that go along with the electronics. Here is a list of the materials needed to complete this project.
Where I'm from, stock measurements on materials are still in imperial units so I do switch back and forth between metric and imperial units in this instructable.
When I cut the material for the table I use imperial units, when I am modifying the table and drilling holes I use metric as you will see on my CAD drawings.
Use a combination of a table saw and a mitre saw to cut the rest of the pieces down to the sizes that you need if you choose to do it yourself.
As for the acrylic sheet, just find a local plastics supplier and get a quote from them. We're almost ready to start building!
The last thing that we need to do is gather up some tools. If you don't feel comfortable using a table saw, talk to a local carpenter and have them cut the wooden rail pieces for you.
They are really basic cuts so I would imagine that it would be a relatively cheap price. Below is a list of tools that we will use to construct the table and the PCBs if you are not building your own table, you will not need the majority of these tools.
Those are the tools that I had used to complete this project. You may be able to get away without some of the tools there, but it gives you a rough idea of what kind of work is involved.
Doesn't Apply To Fully Assembled Kit This step is already done for you Before we begin constructing the physical table, lets get the electronic aspect of this project in order.
There are a total of parts that need to be soldered onto the Master PCB, SMD pads that need to be soldered and through-hole pads.
It may seem daunting, but just remember, you only have to do this once! Even if it takes you three hours to complete, it's a one time deal.
You will need to perform one extra step for the TLC's in order to solder the heatsink pads underneath them to the PCBs.
The best way to explain how to do it is with a video, so watch away! I do have a reflow station on hand and that is what I use, but I wanted to show in the video that it can be done with a heat gun or a hairdryer for those who don't have reflow stations It can also be soldered by heating up the thermal vias with a soldering iron.
See the last two photos in this step. The soldering process of the video below has been sped up 2x but you'll get the idea. Lots of flux, a small soldering iron tip and thin soldering wire are pretty crucial though.
The schematics, bill of materials and the parts list are all located in the zip file in step 1. The RGB pods are quite simple to assemble, whether you assemble them with the reflow method or by hand soldering, they aren't difficult.
There are twenty of them to do though, so it may take you an hour or two. Parts List For All 20 Pods.
There are a total of 19 components per RGB pod, 17 of those components being surface mount packages. They are quite simple to assemble whether you use the reflow method or do each pod by hand.
The reflow method is really only necessary if you are assembling a large amount of RGB pods or have access to cheap solder stencils. When I designed this kit, I specifically decided to use 2x4 IDC cables because of the simplicity to crimp the connectors to the cable.
With these cables, we can crimp all 8 connections in the connector at once, instead of doing it one by one for each wire like many other connectors.
This saves an enormous amount of time as there are 40 connectors that need to be crimped for all 20 RGB pods. If you don't want to buy the proper tool, one can get away with using a pair of vice grips or an actual vice itself to crimp the connector to the cable.
Crimping IDC Connectors. We're going to make the LED rings right now as we need to use them in the next few steps for the layout of the table.
First, cut out a 71mm diameter wooden cutout for each LED ring that you will be installing on the edge of the table not counting the ball washers.
For this table that number is eight. Now grab your 24 LED strip and go to the end of it where the wire is sticking out. Remove a small piece of silicone just below the wire and route the wire through that channel so that it is sticking out the bottom of the strip.
If you don't like the look of the ring with a zip-tie around it even though it will be hidden under a diffuser on the finished table , put superglue on each end of the strip and form it into a ring use a heatgun or hair-dryer if it gives you trouble forming it.
Heating up the silicone allows it to form easier. Once it dries in place, fit it over top of one of the wooden cutouts and glue the underside of the LED ring to the cutout, ensuring that they are one piece right now.
Whichever option you choose to do, repeat it for the other 7 LED rings. I sprayed a diffuser over top of each of my LED rings, but that may not be needed as I decided to put a diffuser over top of the whole table anyways.
So it's completely optional. There are 4 LED rings which are used with the ball washers. Don't add a wood cutout to each ball washer LED ring as they will be fitting around a small piece of ABS pipe used with the ball washer.
Just set them to side once you have them made. If you are just going to modify a table that you purchased somewhere else, you can skip these instructions.
These are just the instructions for how I built my table, one could actually just buy a plastic table from Wal-Mart and modify that to suit their needs.
I don't have a lot of pictures showing my table build so I will resort to using my Sketchup CAD drawings to better explain how the table goes together.
The Sketchup drawing does not show where each screw hole is, but I'm going to assume that if you're building this table that you can handle that otherwise just ask and I'll draw up a quick sketch!
Make sure to drill pilot holes before threading in each screw or you will probably end up cracking the wood! It's a pretty basic table, the overall size of it will come out to 24"x96"x4" without the legs, railing and acrylic sheet.
Here is a list of the following parts that are needed:. Following the photos above, attach all 4 sides to the 24"x96" bottom base of the plywood. Secure each piece with multiple screws from the bottom of the table up into each side piece of the table.
Make sure to drill pilot holes or you will crack the side pieces. After drilling the pilot hole and before putting the screw in, use a countersink bit or just a large drill bit and countersink the hole so that the head of the screw is not sticking above the surface of the wood.
Now add the braces. We will use these holes for routing the cabling. Install these braces inside of the table at Put a strip of weatherproof tape on each piece of wood that makes up the top of the base.
The end result was something that made heads turn, with an all black and chromed out look. Big shout out to Steve and Dim Mak!
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